WOMEN’S JEWELLERY (Published in the festival programmes of May 2004)
The “emprendada” is a traditional luxury women’s jewellery. It constitutes an immediate visual language used to identify economic status that cannot be shown by the typical Ibizan houses, as despite their undeniable elegance are simple and functional.
On the other hand, the Ibizan woman flaunts her wealth in different ways depending on her age, state and other circumstances. In this sense, different jewellery is worn to emphasise and commemorate certain times of her life.
The first time the “emprendada” is worn often coincides with the First Communion, the very first momentous day for every girl and she would wear a very special “emprendada”. Generally, for the First Communion, when one wears gold “emprendada” it would only be a “collaret” (a special necklace), sometimes accompanied with other pieces such as a “sa creu” or a “cordoncillo” (explained later). Over time the “emprendada” holds more and more jewellery until one reaches the “festeig” (courting age), the time in which girls wear the full set (if there are no economic problems preventing them from doing so). From then until the wedding, the “emprendada” would always be with her. She would wear it for Sunday mass, processions, dances and festivals.
The “emprendada” forms part of the family"s wealth and is sometimes used as legitimate inheritance. A full simple set of gold "emprendada" would consist of 2 types of necklaces, with around 15 beads on each one, "el cordoncillo" held by brooch pins and the “ave-corona-crucifijo” (bird-crown-crucifix) set. A more sophisticated “emprendada” would also contain the “cruz-corona-joya” (cross-crown-jewel) set as well as the “adreç” (set of jewels).
SILVER AND CORAL “EMPRENDADA”
THE ROSARIES-, made of silver and coral. They consist of a large sized cross made from very fine silver work with a silver chain and coral beads. “SA JOIA”
A reversible glass locket that contains pictures, protected behind the glass. Also made in silver.
“AGUSTINADA”
Diverse necklaces made of coral or mother of pearl beads, mostly all of the same size and cylindrical shape. One can also use jet rosaries or other materials to substitute coral if wanting to keep costs down.
SILVER RINGS WITH SMALL ROSETTES
The silver ring decorated with a slightly concave rosette and with a violet glass case. They have a typical triangular and key shaped pendant that hangs from one side of the small ring. The arch, made by mould, is decorated with a string of beads.
BUTTONS
They are used to decorate the sleeves on clothes. There is a flat silver button, around 1.5 cm in diameter, decorated with patterns. It has a small granule in the centre and sixteen slightly enhanced spokes all equally distributed. There is also a polyhedral button (the shape of a hammer edge). Another kind is an empty silver button, with a circular base and an irregular polyhedron placed on top of it, similar to a very flat pyramid with five sides.
This jewellery set is worn with the “gonella” (a typical Ibizan outfit) which consists of a thin white shawl, a “capillo” (similar to a hood) and felt cap. GOLD “EMPRENDADA”
The gold “emprendada” can be worn with any typical shawl, regardless of dress.
THE CROSS
A religious set formed by the “Ave-Corona-Crucifijo” (Bird-Crown-Crucifix)… It is worn vertically in the middle of the chest.
“AVE” (Bird) is the representation of a two headed eagle 2.5 to 3.5 cm long and 3cm wide (maximum). Occasionally this eagle is shown not wearing a crown.
“CORONA” (CROWN) This is between 5 to 8 cm high and 6 to 9cm wide. The base diameter is 4 to 5 cm.
“CRUCIFIJO” (CRUCIFIX) It is 10 to 12 cm high, 9 to 11 wide and the arms are 1 to 2 cm wide.
“LA JOYA" (THE JEWEL)
This is a religious set formed by the “CRUZ-CORONA-JOYA” (CROSS-CROWN-JEWEL) It is worn vertically in the middle of the chest.
CROSS
It is 5 to 6 cm high as well as wide and is fine metal work. The central point of the cross is a sphere that has two open flowers facing each other marked on it.
CROWN It is 5.5 to 6.5 cm long and 4.5 to 6 cm wide.
JEWEL A glass locket with pictures on both sides and fine surrounding metal work. These pictures are protected by glass. There are some made just of gold and others with glass case mountings.
“S’ADREÇ” (SET OF JEWELS)
A gold cross with precious stones headed by an independent ornament called “castell” or “castellet”. It is placed on the left side of the chest. This piece is not very widely used.
”CORDONCILLO”
It is a compact chain. It looks like the links are welded together in a perpendicular way. A true “cordoncillo” must have no less than 16 spans.
NECKLACE
Rows of gold chain made for the linkage of empty beads. These beads have a special shape consisting of two trunco-conical parts facing each other. The “cordoncillo” as well as the necklace are placed on top of the religious set and make semi-circles across the chest.
BROOCH
It is a gold sheet slightly elliptic with a central decoration and fine surrounding metal work. It is used to hold the “cordoncillo” and sometimes the necklace.
The below are “emprendada” accessories:
GOLD RINGS
The Ibizan ring set that covers all fingers apart from the thumbs is the present that a boy gives to the girl at the time of getting engaged as a sign of their engagement. There are diverse main ring models: the “borronat”, the “sello” and the “rosetes”. The “copinya” (shell) also exists and other types that are currently made.
BUTTON It is a spherical piece with 13 mm in diameter formed by the joining of two circular sheets, embossed and with waves in the edges. They are more ornaments than functional pieces.
EARRINGS
Horseshoe: It has a horseshoe shape and is fine metal work.
Pendant: An empty sphere shape made from fine metal work or a smooth gold sheet, and a pyramidal body of 6 sides, finished off with a hemisphere helmet. The main part of the set is the sphere.
Town Hall 
The Municipality 
